The Professional Chef

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The Professional Chef

 

I believe in the world there are three types of chefs. The popular Food Network television program Chopped recently had an episode featuring teen chefs. The program included 13-year-old barely teenagers cooking in the usual format. This, in my mind, is not very different from the scores of applications I get from recent culinary school graduates for Executive Chef positions. In both cases it causes me to scratch my head and wonder why I've spent the better half of my career developing my craft and earning my title. -but enough of that for now, the entitlement of unqualified cooks calling themselves chefs is another blog post entirely. Case in point, these two categories of "chef" embody the realization that there is a subset of our craft in the industry who are just names on a jacket, or simply filling an open role. 

In fairness however, many who are successful in the industry today cut their teeth in such a way, myself included. My first Executive Chef role was at a time in my career in which I was neither prepared -for from a culinary standpoint, or have had the experience -from a leadership standpoint, yet nonetheless I was handed the jacket. Still, the pomp and circumstance of having the title doesn't necessarily guarantee that the person filling the role is equipped with the skills necessary to be a true Chef. Words on a jacket does not a Chef make. 

That brings me to the second category of "chef." This is the person whom we've all worked for in the industry; the person where all we can say is "OUI CHEF!" -a phrase that can be taken one of two ways, however in my experience more often than not it's with a sarcastic disrespect for the person who it is directed toward. As if to say you're wrong and we have no idea what you're talking about, but my job is to follow you nonetheless. There is perhaps no truer a representation of lack of confidence in their leader or worse, a complete disrespect. It behooves a chef to move through this stage of his career as quickly as possible. Frankly some never leave it. I know I've worked for them. Others quickly understand that leading by example is the quickest way to gain the confidence in the team they lead. 

Now our last category. The category which I will call the professional chef. This is the person who, in all respects, has reached the true nature of what it means to be a chef. It is necessary for this person to demonstrate not only the technique and confidence in cooking ability but also in display a steady composure in the kitchen with their ability to energetically lead and direct their kitchen brigade. It is in my humble opinion that it is the necessity of these two qualities combined in a single person, which makes the pursuit of this particular caliber of chef, increasingly difficult to find in our culture today. 

I've recently had the opportunity to coach and train four chefs for the completion of their CIA ProChef Certification. This is an opportunity for chefs to attend an exam session lasting a week to demonstrate their abilities and techniques of professional cooking. Completion of this exam, by no means is an easy task in itself. However, I would be remiss in saying that once the exam is complete the chef truly embodies ALL the qualities. There is no question that aptitude has been tested and skills verified, but the true color of the chef is taking those skills and abilities back to the teams that they lead. The completion of the exam, followed by the commencement ceremony signifies truly that -the beginning.

In a recent interview author Tim Ferriss interviewed four-star general Stanley McChrystal. In this interview the General indicated that for any professional you must keep always three people in your sights at all times. This leads to the ultimate professional development and trains leaders to remain objective. Here is a paraphrase of the three individuals he suggests:

#1:  A subordinate who is previously doing a job that you once had, and more importantly, doing that job better than you did when you had the job. It's important to have someone like this in mind to ensure that we as individuals have both the humility and the objectivity to recognize greatness around us. More importantly is the understanding that key to a truly successful team is building strength at all levels, it is not successful as a result of the talents of the leader. If this particular person is a subordinate then it is indeed our responsibility to develop that person. We should be striving for that mentality of "the student exceeds the teacher." This and only this will help strengthen and make your team better than it has ever been before. 

#2: A peer in your industry that's doing the current job that you currently occupy, either in another facility or for another company. What makes that person more successful than you are in your present capacity. What learnings can you derive from that person's success and how can you implement them in meeting or developing your own team and personal brand? It is in our nature as humans to want to be the best at anything. I think all of us are competitive to some degree. In other words if you're not already exceeding your peer group then to some degree you're competing against them. 

#3: A superior you admire as a mentor or role model who exhibits the qualities of leadership or management that you hope to  proficiently emulate someday. For the first half of my career this was always something very easy for me to do. When I worked in the pantry making salads and desserts I always carefully watched the fry station, once promoted to fry station I always wanted to sauté, on the sauté station I wanted to broil, on the broiler I wanted to expedite. Just as important as it is to identify people do you want to emulate, it's also important to identify people you do NOT want to emulate. This was also clear and evident in my early career. Nothing makes these two groups of people more distinct then when the entire team is in the weeds. The only way out is by working together. Half the team is bitching and whining and throwing their tongs about the line, the other half of the team is yelling ticket numbers and calling fires. If someday you want to be the chef which side of the pass are you on? 

Only a few talented chefs reach this pinnacle of their careers and have both the culinary technical aptitude and accreditation as well as -when looking down at their jacket, the letters of Executive Chef. At this point you should realize that now YOU have become the leader and role model. The prerequisites have been met, the table has metaphorically been set, the expectation now is to execute on that vision we spoke about. Leadership in this industry is not an easy thing to get your arms around. The dynamic and personalities of many culinary workers is very unique. 

A message to those chefs who became certified today -heed the call, that this is just the beginning. This is NOW the time for YOU to take the responsibility, indeed the DUTY to give back more to the industry, more than it has given you. 

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Foundations Dinner

Foundations Dinner

FORT KENT FOUNDATIONS DINNER, 2015

UNIVERSITY OF MAINE, FORT KENT

Certified Development Chef

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Certified Development Chef

Sweet Smell of Success from a Center-Led Culinary Kitchen

November 2014

When is it good to have too many cooks in the kitchen? When they are Aramark chefs working with the Culinary Development team at the Aramark Innovation Center in Philadelphia and they’re collaborating to create standard processes to improve menu performance and recipe consistency across the enterprise. This was not only an opportunity for professional exchange but also for professional development.

Sixteen chefs from Higher Education, Business Dining and Healthcare received “certification” this fall after spending three days with chefs from Aramark’s Culinary Development team. They worked on the disciplined process of recipe development, utilization of PRIMA Web, application of consumer-driven insights, health and wellness priorities and more. The collaboration allowed for an exchange of the very important insights of our field chefs and the development perspective of our chefs on the Culinary Development team.

“These collaborations foster engagement, recognition, development and alignment around the Food Management priorities for the business, and the shared role that the field and the center have in satisfying them,” said Doug Martinides, Vice President, Culinary Development.

The classes not only provide an opportunity to recognize culinary talent within Aramark, but Martinides believes the connectivity established among business unit chefs is significant and leads to better recipe development from the culinary center. “All of this becomes increasingly important as we ‘Master the Menu’ within our Food Framework,” he said.

Added Darryl Mickler, Associate Vice President, Culinary Development, “At the highest level, this is about building a repeatable business model by bringing together the talent of the field chefs to create recipes for a One Aramark solution.”

Business Dining Executive Chef Corby Robbins at HPI Real Estate/AMD in Austin, Texas, concluded, “The biggest thing I got from the class is the importance of menu development, and learning that the process of following Aramark recipes as-written can create a whole chain of events…better yield on menu items, lower cost, time saved for staff and consistency at our café.”

Sixteen culinary chefs from across LOBs collaborated with Aramark's Culinary Development team this fall to help improve menu performance and recipe consistency across the enterprise.

Front row (kneeling, left-right):
Jay Katz, Food Service Director, B&I; Travis Ramsdell, Executive Chef, B&I; Charles Julian, Chef Manager, Healthcare; Justin Mcpherson, Chef Manager, Healthcare

Back row (left-right):
Scott Zahren, Director of Culinary Development, Strategic Assets; Darryl Mickler, AVP, Culinary Development, Strategic Assets; Matthew Fuss, Culinary Development Chef, Strategic Assets; Barry Giordano, Executive Chef, Healthcare; Matthew Thompson, Food Quality & Standards Director; Edward Manacle, Senior Executive Chef, B&I; Erin Schuessler, Food Service Director; Tim Zintz, Sr. Culinary Development Chef, Strategic Assets; Corby Robbins, Food Service Director, B&I; Pinky Varghese, Executive Chef, Higher Education; Mike Coble, Executive Chef, Higher Education; Stacy Wiroll, Executive Chef, Higher Education; Barry Williams, Chef Manager, Healthcare; Glen Pugh, Chef de Cuisine, Higher Education; George Benzinger, Chef de Cuisine, B&I; Kevin Hamer, Director Culinary Development - Canada, Strategic Assets; Charles Schermer, Sr. Culinary Development Chef, Strategic Assets; Doug Martinides, VP Culinary Development, Strategic Assets

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Foundations Dinner

Foundations Dinner

Fort Kent Foundations Dinner, 2014

University of Maine, Fort Kent

Epicurian Passion

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Epicurian Passion

Brandeis Chefs Share Epicurian Passions

Publish Available at: Brandeis University BrandiesNOW

Have you ever dreamed of competing on 'Hell’s Kitchen' or 'Iron Chef?' Zachary Kestler recently brought home silver in the national Aramark competition

By Susan Chaityn Lebovits
Dec. 17, 2012

 

He’s cooked for Manny Ramirez, Harrison Ford and, mostly likely, you.

Zachary Kestler, a sous-chef who calls Usdan home, recently took second place in the 2012 Aramark Culinary Excellence competition (ACE) as part of the northeast region team. More than 130 chefs from universities and conference centers across North America competed over the past six months in 18 regional competitions, which culminated in the national showdown in Orlando, Florida.

If you’ve ever had dreams of competing on "Hell’s Kitchen" or "Irom Chef," check out Kestler’s final challenge: the top 30 Aramark chefs from the United States and Canada were divided into 10 three-member teams, given 30 minutes to create a menu, then allotted three hours to prepare an appetizer, entree and dessert.

Kestler’s team’s menu included pan-roasted tilapia with red pepper onion ragout, clam nage, and creamed leeks and lardons (cubed bacon).  The entree was a Latin-style chicken with a sofrito rice and ginger-scented slaw.  The meal culminated with a dessert called “Chocolate Trio,” which consisted of a flourless chocolate torte, Grand Marnier truffle and a chocolate mocha tower.

Certified master chefs from the American Culinary Federation (ACF) judged the competition, rating the finalists on a number of categories ranging from flavor and plate presentation to use of ingredients and food safety.

Kestler grew up in Newport, R.I., where seafood and local farming played a big role in the area’s gastronomy. He started cooking professionally in kitchens when he was 14, then attended Le CourdonBlue, where he studied classic French cooking techniques.

“We would have blind taste-tests of herbs until we mastered the flavor profiles,” says Kestler.  “The taste, the smell, and what dishes the herb pairs well with. It was definitely intense.”

He then externships at Walt Disney World in Fla. at both the Boardwalk Resort and the ESPN club, where a number of Hollywood celebrities came in to dine.

Kestler’s epicurean passions first took hold in his grandmother’s kitchen.

“My grandfather was in a wheelchair for all of my life, so I spent a lot of time at their house, cooking with my grandmother,” says Kestler. “She’s first generation Portuguese so I learned a lot about Portuguese cooking.”

Classic chorizo and kale soup was a staple during the cold, New England winters, he says.

With over 3,000 meals served daily, between Usdan, Sherman, the Faculty club and coffee shops, what does Kestler find most challenging about his work here? Addressing the wide variety of eating styles that are becoming more mainstreamed, such as vegan, vegetarian, dairy free and gluten free, he says.

“Brandeis has a large Asian population, so you can’t just prepare one type of cuisine and expect everyone to be satisfied” says Kestler. “We have many different stations, and are trying to adapt to everyone’s needs and wants.”

“I mainly eat at Sherman, and I am Gluten-Free,” says Lindsay Mitnik ’16.

“I really appreciate the effort the they put into the gluten-free options as they try to have something different every day- and they always have bread and bagels and pasta.”

Mitnik’s request:  Roast beef at the sandwich bar and more fresh fruit.

Many of the chefs at Brandeis have gone through extensive training, says Mathew Thompson, director of operations. He meets with the production team regularly to consult on everything from menus and individual recipes to placing orders.

Thompson attended the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, NY where he received a chef 2 degree. He also holds a Certified Chef de Cuisine degree from the American Culinary Federation (ACF), where the degree of culinary knowledge drilled down to how food pigments react. For example, if a purple carrot is cooked in an acidic solution, such as a citrus juice, what would that do to the carrot?

Thompson then went on to train to become a ProChef level lll, or executive chef.

“There were wine tastings, wine parings, and a business portion of the curriculum,” says Thompson. “They expect that those who leave that program could run their own restaurant.”

Thompson says when he was studying for the ProChef level lll certification he would train in the Usdan kitchen on Saturdays.

“When we wanted to learn how to make empanadas the authentic way, we had all of the grandmother’s cookbooks out, says Thompson. “The other chefs that went with me returned to campus with an even greater enthusiasm of our craft.”

So how is the restaurant atmosphere different from a university?

That gap is slowly diminishing, says Thompson. “All of our stations are now cooked on the floor where we add fresh sauce and toppings. I see restaurant and institutional cooking converging.”

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Easy Holiday Entertaining

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Easy Holiday Entertaining

Easy Holiday Entertaining 

Cooking Class Hosted by Chef Matthew Thompson

October 24, 2012, Brandeis University

 

Beverage Selection
Pear & Apple White Sangria
Sparkling Water & Assorted Soft Drinks Available Upon Request

 Reception Appetizers (Gathering)
Pumpkin Arancini with Port-Blackberry Sauce
Panko-Breaded Pumpkin Risotto, Port-Blackberry Reduction

Parmesan-Spinach Pinwheels
Roasted Tomato Pistou with Marcona Almonds

 Roasted Squash & Chevre Tarts
Tarragon Emulsion & Balsamic Gastrique

First Course
Local New England Cheese Board
Camembert, Cave-Aged Cheddar, Mohawk Trail Triple Crème Brie,
Sage Derby, Roquefort-Crusted Chevre, & Massachusetts Mountain Gouda
Served with Fancy Lavash Crackers and Seasonal Chutney

 Chef Discussion/Demonstration
Roasted Beet Salad with Peppercorn-Shallot & Cider Vinaigrette
Crumbled Ricotta Salata and & Toasted Pistachios

Oven Roasted Fall Vegetable Medley

Interactive Class
Ravioli/Tortellini Making

Butternut Squash
Tossed in a Browned-Butter & Sage Sauce

Duck & Porcini
Rosemary Demi-Glace

Wine Pairing & Discussion

Assorted Cake Pops
Pumpkin * Cranberry * Cheesecake

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ACE 2012, Orlando

ACE 2012, Orlando

ACE (ARAMARK CULINARY EXCELLENCE)

Orlando, 2012

National Semi-Finalists

National Semi-Finalists

Making Desserts

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Making Desserts

Making Desserts 

COOKING CLASS HOSTED BY CHEF MATTHEW THOMPSON

May 31, 2012, Brandeis University

 

Beverage Selection
Sparkling Watar & Assorted Soft Drinks Available Upon Request

 Reception Appetizers
Carrot-Pecan Whoopie Pies
Orange-Ginger Spiced Whipped Cream Cheese Filling
Paired with: The Mason’s Jar
(Vodka, Ginger Puree, Ginger Beer)

Grilled Stone Fruit & Wild Berries
Served with Tangerine-Whipped Sweet Mascarpone & Micro Spearmint
Paired with: Peach Lambic

Five-Spiced Apple Wonton ‘Tacos’
Sweet Soy Sauce, Cinnamon Gelato
Paired with: Caramel Appletini
(Apple Vodka, Butterscotch Schnapps)

Small Plates Chef Demo Stations with Drink Pairings
Classic Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Mascerated Strawberries, Fresh Basil & Sweet Balsamic Reduction
Paired with: Cucumber-Basil Cocktail

Crisp Chocolate Sail Filled with Chocolate Mousse
Candied Orange, Raspberry Coulis, Whipped Chantilly
Paired with: Chocolate-Orange Martini

Cheesecake ‘Napoleon’ Hazelnut Twill
Espresso Cheescake, Vanilla Bean Cheesecake, Silken Raspberry Cheesecake
Nutty Irishmen: Bailey’s & Frangelic 

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ACE 2011, Tampa

ACE 2011, Tampa

ACE (ARAMARK CULINARY EXCELLENCE)

Tampa, 2011

Northeast Regional Winners

Northeast Regional Winners

National Competition